Have I mentioned that I like long wings? No? Well, I like long wings. And I like lists. Lists help me organize information. And this list of Florsheim long wings should help you as well.
For this list, I focused solely on Made in USA long wings manufactured during the Cold War era and made from cattle skin leather. No Shell Cordovan or exotic leather models are listed. For Shell, read my post on Florsheim’s Shell Cordovan modals. And to keep this list a reasonable length I also excluded a few other types of models: long wing spectators; custom models; and the 70000 series of models which were sold in factory outlet stores.
Where can you find the model number for a pair of Florsheim shoes? Read this post.
This list not complete. There are likely a couple more models out there. But this list includes models seen on eBay in the past couple years. The shoes on the list are categorized by product line: Florsheim Imperial; Florsheim Royal Imperial; and Florsheim Blue Label.
If you are looking for a pair or selling a pair, these are the most common models on eBay:
Should we assume that models not listed as “corrected” or “binder leather” are made with FULL grain uppers? Also, is it fair to say that Royal Imperial > Imperial > Blue Line in terms of quality and construction?
Thanks, and carry on the great work you’ve been doing.
In general – yes. Some of the 1960s Imperials were better than 1990s Royal Imperials. 1950s Blue Line were top quality shoes. For the leather question, I wrote the type of leather if I had info on it. The 30831 and 20819 look like corrected leather to me.
I found myself a pair of Kenmoors in what looks like Coventry Calf, but the oddest thing about them is they don’t have a model number. Ever come across that before?
And I’ve got an interesting-ish story about the Golden Harvest, the 93631. On a whim about five years ago, I bought a pair of Kenmoors off of eBay. The heathen who was selling them had spray painted them (for some reason) with an orange Meltonian shoe coloring and was touting them as looking pretty good. When I got them, I was speechless. I couldn’t live with a pair of shoes in my closet that looked like a grade school art project, so, I decided to strip off all the paint. They came out looking not too terrible, so I decided to keep them. Only recently–say, a month ago–did I learn that they were, in fact, a pair of Golden Harvests. They’ve lost quite a bit in color after the stripping. Anything I can do to help get that color back? They’ve been conditioned probably half a dozen times already with an all-natural shoe cream I like to use.
Its a tough color to restore since the color is so light. Its much easier to fix up a darker pair. Black is the easiest. I struggled with another pair of golden harvest that was in rough shape and finally gave up. They always looked like flithy old shoes. Sorry.
Hi David , love your blog and have learned so much . I bought #30813 on ebay . They dont appear to be storm welted . Do you lnow if they are goodyear welted ?
They have no country of origin and appear like new . The insole has the heel florsheim badge . But in front of that under the toebox to the arch looks kinda bare , as if its missing the underfoot front of the insole covering . They’re so pristine , it’s hard to imagine anything was removed from the inside . The date code is “CH” . Is therr any info you may have . I just like to know .
Thank you .
I believe those were made in the 1970s. They are almost certainly goodyear welted. Most vintage Florsheim shoes have a heel pad, the insole isn’t fully covered. Hope that helps.
It helps very much . Thank you . Wore them yesterday . They crease a bit on the vamp as they are a bit long . My feet felt fine , and I felt sharp . Thank you for your reply , and for awakening in me a deep appreciation for shoes that “the greatest generation” wore . God Bless .
David I’m sorry I have another “rookie” question …What type of alcohol to clean the interior . Is it isopropyl or butyl or are the interchangeable . Also, is there any other tips you might recommend to “freshen” the interiors of a used pair of shoes ? Thank you .
They were made in the USA and are goodyear welted. They are going to be a lower quality that Imperial Kenmoors – thinner soles, not leather lined. They should have a similar fit
David, can you tell me if there is any real difference between the 92604 Kenmore and the 96624 Kenmore (other than the year they were made)?
I now own a pair of 93602 Kenmore’s, but now need these shoes in black.
Thank you.
Thank you so much! I’m in awe. Not the best shoe Florsheim ever made, I’m guessing (and here I thought Royal Imperials were the top of the line, yet couldn’t figure out why the leather seems so…cheap). Thanks again for the info!
Can you comment on the 70000 series models? I’m hovering over a pair of 76592 that look to be in new condition but possibly constructed with corrected grain uppers (?) – stamped “MADE IN U.S.A.”
I don’t have any catalogs that mention the 70000 series shoes. My guess is that they were sold through a channel outside the Florsheim stores in the 90s. Many of them are almost identical to the models in the regular line but usually with lower quality construction. I haven’t seen a worn 76592 so I am not sure if it is corrected leather or not.
Hey David,
I just got my hands on a 30813 model. Just wanted to ask is it corrected grain or full grain? Would you have any idea? I tried googling but not able to find anything on this.
David, I have a pair of Worthmore wingtips which are in amazing condition. I stopped wearing them decades ago and believe the heels and soles to be original . I’d be happy to email photos.
The top row reads 10 1/2C 3216 9 11 (or 9H?). The bottom reads 9F(or 96, 9B, 9R?) 7337 WP H9 (or 119?) Can they really be from August of 1959?
Any marketing advice and / or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I have a pair of Royal Imperials with model #97336 or 97335, possibly 97835/6 or 97385/6. Do you happen to have any information on the shoe? They are double soled with a storm welt and brown/cognac pebbled/hatch grain, more than likely bookbinder unfortunately.
I found a nice pair long wing model with the logo warn out on the inside heal area and on the lowers. I am almost 100% sure they are Florsheim’s but the model number is not even close to the numbers you listed in your article. The numbers that appear on the inside are Z7019282 2 and below these numbers is E/C 5736. The “E” on the second row is almost cursive in style. I can send pictures if needed, just need help identifying the model if possible or if they are even Florsheim’s, I’ve picked up at least 5 different pairs of the long wing models, this is the first I am having trouble identifying.
I am not sure why Florsheim described the leather as “Bookbinder”. In the examples I have had, it is a smooth calfskin. Sometimes Bookbinder refers to bonded leather. Those “Bookbinder” Florsheim shoes are not made with bonded leather.
Thanks for the clarification. Is it then safe to assume that the models made with “bookbinder derby leather” (ie the 31881) are bonded/corrected grain?
The 31881 is not corrected or bonded. 20830 is a bonded leather pair.
I have a pair of black Florsheim wingtips c.1985? which truly are bookbinder leather. On books, it’s like a very thin layer of leather over a cardboard soft cover. The shoes seem to be pretty much the same. I do not have them handy to look for a model #. Wore them to work weekends for about 15 years, and them had them resoled with rubber soles.
This week I’ve gotten interested in shoes and learned some basic shoe definitions. And so, this is the first one I want to ask questions about. They’re in poor shape, appear to be Florsheims but what model and era might they be? All numbers and letters appear non-existent. Here’s an address to images of these long wings. Any help? https://imgur.com/a/OMMa51u
Thanks given to both of you. I haven’t bought them but they appear to be in the 10.5 to 11.5 range. Was the V cleat then used by other manufacturers?
My foot likes at least a 10.5 D in most sizes. Slipping one of these on my foot was tight. So, they feel like 9.5 D or 10. Just by feel. Price marked is $16 and they won’t negotiate.
Hi, I can’t find any useful info on the following pair I bought in a barely used condition, unpolished. These are Florsheim Limited. Full wing. I think they may be something called “Veblen”.
010727 09
AB
On the tongue the numbers are: 12071 – 200. Says Made in India.
I’d like to know the colour name so I can match some polish. I can send photos if needed.
Thank for any help,
I don’t have any info on that model. Since the model was made in the last 15 years, Florsheim customer service would likely be able to help you with that question.
David, I found a pair of Imperials with a model # of 76020. Is this a long wing? They don’t appear to ever have been worn, as there is no wear on the soles or heels, and no creasing on the vamps. I couldn’t find any info on these.
Here’s one from ebay: longwing, brown, green script“Royal Imperial by Florsheim” on yellow, but with a single pre-1973 flush V- cleat. No legible model number, it seems.
AFAICT, that configuration seems impossible according to this page (you list no single-cleat pre-1973 Royal Imperial longwings)
92328 Imperials EE date code, safe to assume they’re corrected cobbler from 84 ? They’re fairly worn debating if it’s worth a full resole or just wear them til they can’t be worn.
Found a pair of Florsheim 97625’s that have a v cleat flush with the heel of the shoe, but its from 1996 considering the embossed theater style logo and the date code… any reason why its flush and not and insert?
Hello. I have searched everywhere to find the definition of Cortez leather, is it another name for Patent Leather, What is Colonial Leather? I just picked up a pair of Florsheim 31648, the ones you said “ I couldn’t imagine they sold much of these” they look like a 70’s vintage but they don’t have the date code basically it’s all faded out and there are almost no numbers remaining but you can see they were made in Canada and seem to have a similar construction to Dack’s. They also have cashmere under the tongue. They have original heels and soles. I’m not sure when Florsheim stopped making shoes in Canada. Thanks….Dean
Nazzer29@gmail.com.
The number is 31658 instead of 31648. I have since found out that they are made of Bison Skin. I also don’t know the vintage of these shoes but I am guessing that they are 60’s or 70’s. Any help with these shoes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Dean
Great website with lots of valuable info. I’m a veteran eBay seller, but new to selling men’s shoes. I have a pair of brown wingtips in excellent condition that I can’t identify by the numbers inside 11428-221. I think they’re size 12 EEE, so not sure if that’s bad or good. I’ve looked on your lists, but don’t see this number, or anything close. Do you know the name of the style, or where I can look the ID number up? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Stephanie
David,
I have pairs of 93602s in various shades of “brown”. One pair, for example is an exact match for shoe cream color “London Tan”, while others are a lighter or darker brown. I am not aware of any discussion of this. Is there a code to be cracked?
Florsheim made the 93602 for over 30 years. The upper leather color and quality definitely varied somewhat during that time. I assume they switched suppliers at times. The color may be related to the supplier. But that is a guess.
Was there a specific time period or line/model, i.e., Imperial or Royal Imperial, for which “hand-stained brown” was or was not associated?
Picked up a 96624 on eBay. Stamp on bottom and that little rectangular cutout thing both say royal imperial. Date code is EA. Replacement rubber heel so can’t date based on that. Can I assume these are 1990?
Inside by heel has a lot of wear and discoloration. Is that insole wear or a sock liner lining that can be torn out and replaced? Thanks
Should we assume that models not listed as “corrected” or “binder leather” are made with FULL grain uppers? Also, is it fair to say that Royal Imperial > Imperial > Blue Line in terms of quality and construction?
Thanks, and carry on the great work you’ve been doing.
In general – yes. Some of the 1960s Imperials were better than 1990s Royal Imperials. 1950s Blue Line were top quality shoes. For the leather question, I wrote the type of leather if I had info on it. The 30831 and 20819 look like corrected leather to me.
I found myself a pair of Kenmoors in what looks like Coventry Calf, but the oddest thing about them is they don’t have a model number. Ever come across that before?
Yes. Send me a photo
And I’ve got an interesting-ish story about the Golden Harvest, the 93631. On a whim about five years ago, I bought a pair of Kenmoors off of eBay. The heathen who was selling them had spray painted them (for some reason) with an orange Meltonian shoe coloring and was touting them as looking pretty good. When I got them, I was speechless. I couldn’t live with a pair of shoes in my closet that looked like a grade school art project, so, I decided to strip off all the paint. They came out looking not too terrible, so I decided to keep them. Only recently–say, a month ago–did I learn that they were, in fact, a pair of Golden Harvests. They’ve lost quite a bit in color after the stripping. Anything I can do to help get that color back? They’ve been conditioned probably half a dozen times already with an all-natural shoe cream I like to use.
Its a tough color to restore since the color is so light. Its much easier to fix up a darker pair. Black is the easiest. I struggled with another pair of golden harvest that was in rough shape and finally gave up. They always looked like flithy old shoes. Sorry.
Hi David , love your blog and have learned so much . I bought #30813 on ebay . They dont appear to be storm welted . Do you lnow if they are goodyear welted ?
They have no country of origin and appear like new . The insole has the heel florsheim badge . But in front of that under the toebox to the arch looks kinda bare , as if its missing the underfoot front of the insole covering . They’re so pristine , it’s hard to imagine anything was removed from the inside . The date code is “CH” . Is therr any info you may have . I just like to know .
Thank you .
I believe those were made in the 1970s. They are almost certainly goodyear welted. Most vintage Florsheim shoes have a heel pad, the insole isn’t fully covered. Hope that helps.
It helps very much . Thank you . Wore them yesterday . They crease a bit on the vamp as they are a bit long . My feet felt fine , and I felt sharp . Thank you for your reply , and for awakening in me a deep appreciation for shoes that “the greatest generation” wore . God Bless .
David I’m sorry I have another “rookie” question …What type of alcohol to clean the interior . Is it isopropyl or butyl or are the interchangeable . Also, is there any other tips you might recommend to “freshen” the interiors of a used pair of shoes ? Thank you .
I generally use 70% isopropyl alcohol. Then follow that with a UV treatment. Sometimes I will condition the inside of the shoe with lexol.
Wow ! Great ! Thank you . I love the watchlist as well !!!
Is there a UV design you like , for freshening up shoes ? There seems to a few choices . Thank you
This is the one I have used: http://amzn.to/2mX3bMy
David, what’s your opinion on 31881? Construction? Are they made in US? Full grain leather? GYW? Do they run similar to 93602, 93605?
Thanks
They were made in the USA and are goodyear welted. They are going to be a lower quality that Imperial Kenmoors – thinner soles, not leather lined. They should have a similar fit
Model 39961?
I haven’t seen that model
David, can you tell me if there is any real difference between the 92604 Kenmore and the 96624 Kenmore (other than the year they were made)?
I now own a pair of 93602 Kenmore’s, but now need these shoes in black.
Thank you.
No. There is no real difference. Both are nice shoes
Sir:
Nowhere can I find info on Royal Imperial 97318, certainly not for lack of trying. Any insight, any at all, would be appreciated!
The 97318 is a wing tip called the Park. It was made in the 80s and 90s. The soles are not goodyear welted.
Thank you so much! I’m in awe. Not the best shoe Florsheim ever made, I’m guessing (and here I thought Royal Imperials were the top of the line, yet couldn’t figure out why the leather seems so…cheap). Thanks again for the info!
Can you comment on the 70000 series models? I’m hovering over a pair of 76592 that look to be in new condition but possibly constructed with corrected grain uppers (?) – stamped “MADE IN U.S.A.”
Thank you.
I don’t have any catalogs that mention the 70000 series shoes. My guess is that they were sold through a channel outside the Florsheim stores in the 90s. Many of them are almost identical to the models in the regular line but usually with lower quality construction. I haven’t seen a worn 76592 so I am not sure if it is corrected leather or not.
Thanks so much for all of the information and for the quick response!
Need help identifying this model. Brown leather, model 75825 IC.
That’s a made in India brown long wing
Were all of the 70000 models made in India?
I don’t believe they were made in India.
Hey David,
I just got my hands on a 30813 model. Just wanted to ask is it corrected grain or full grain? Would you have any idea? I tried googling but not able to find anything on this.
Its made from “Cortez leather”. Not sure what that is but it might be top grain leather.
Thanks for the quick response!
David, I have a pair of Worthmore wingtips which are in amazing condition. I stopped wearing them decades ago and believe the heels and soles to be original . I’d be happy to email photos.
The top row reads 10 1/2C 3216 9 11 (or 9H?). The bottom reads 9F(or 96, 9B, 9R?) 7337 WP H9 (or 119?) Can they really be from August of 1959?
Any marketing advice and / or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Any idea on the 76400 long wing? Looks like a 1990s logo and possibly made in India? Corrected grain?
Definitely made in India. I don’t have much else.
Any info on long-wing green label Imperials single sole six eyelet models?
Hello,
I have a pair of Royal Imperials with model #97336 or 97335, possibly 97835/6 or 97385/6. Do you happen to have any information on the shoe? They are double soled with a storm welt and brown/cognac pebbled/hatch grain, more than likely bookbinder unfortunately.
Appreciate any information you could provide.
I don’t recognize those numbers. Send me a few photos. My email is on the contact page.
Hello,
I found a nice pair long wing model with the logo warn out on the inside heal area and on the lowers. I am almost 100% sure they are Florsheim’s but the model number is not even close to the numbers you listed in your article. The numbers that appear on the inside are Z7019282 2 and below these numbers is E/C 5736. The “E” on the second row is almost cursive in style. I can send pictures if needed, just need help identifying the model if possible or if they are even Florsheim’s, I’ve picked up at least 5 different pairs of the long wing models, this is the first I am having trouble identifying.
Thanks!
HELP!!! Model 31885…date code FH (reddish brown pebbled leather) any clue as to when these were produced? ‘68, ‘78, ‘88, ‘98???
Probably 78
Vocab question: what does “bookbinder” mean? Asking specifically with respect to the 30736 model. Thanks!
I am not sure why Florsheim described the leather as “Bookbinder”. In the examples I have had, it is a smooth calfskin. Sometimes Bookbinder refers to bonded leather. Those “Bookbinder” Florsheim shoes are not made with bonded leather.
Thanks for the clarification. Is it then safe to assume that the models made with “bookbinder derby leather” (ie the 31881) are bonded/corrected grain?
The 31881 is not corrected or bonded. 20830 is a bonded leather pair.
I have a pair of black Florsheim wingtips c.1985? which truly are bookbinder leather. On books, it’s like a very thin layer of leather over a cardboard soft cover. The shoes seem to be pretty much the same. I do not have them handy to look for a model #. Wore them to work weekends for about 15 years, and them had them resoled with rubber soles.
Looking at Blue Label 76019 – derby long wing
what about that model #?
Likely made in the 1990s. Signature Line. Probably an okay pair but I haven’t owned one.
This week I’ve gotten interested in shoes and learned some basic shoe definitions. And so, this is the first one I want to ask questions about. They’re in poor shape, appear to be Florsheims but what model and era might they be? All numbers and letters appear non-existent. Here’s an address to images of these long wings. Any help?
https://imgur.com/a/OMMa51u
I don’t believe Florsheim made that pair. Construction is different than Florsheim. Probably made in the 1960s though. They might be British Walkers.
Douglas:
What ever the brand, those shoes have a nice worn and “seasoned” look about them that I really like. What size are they? Any interest in selling them?
Thanks given to both of you. I haven’t bought them but they appear to be in the 10.5 to 11.5 range. Was the V cleat then used by other manufacturers?
My foot likes at least a 10.5 D in most sizes. Slipping one of these on my foot was tight. So, they feel like 9.5 D or 10. Just by feel. Price marked is $16 and they won’t negotiate.
Hi, I can’t find any useful info on the following pair I bought in a barely used condition, unpolished. These are Florsheim Limited. Full wing. I think they may be something called “Veblen”.
010727 09
AB
On the tongue the numbers are: 12071 – 200. Says Made in India.
I’d like to know the colour name so I can match some polish. I can send photos if needed.
Thank for any help,
Brad
I don’t have any info on that model. Since the model was made in the last 15 years, Florsheim customer service would likely be able to help you with that question.
David,
I tried them but got the bums rush. Not
even a hint that they would help. Thank you though for your time.
Brad
Not surprising
#76400 build year?
The 76400 was made in India so it probably dates to the 1990s.
David, I found a pair of Imperials with a model # of 76020. Is this a long wing? They don’t appear to ever have been worn, as there is no wear on the soles or heels, and no creasing on the vamps. I couldn’t find any info on these.
Yes, that is a long wing. Model is the Concord and part of Florsheim Signature line. I believe it was made in the 1990s.
Thank you!
David, any comments on Florsheim Imperial model # 92329.
The 92329 is a black wing tip. The upper is a corrected polished cobbler. Not sought after. They generally sell between $30 to $60.
Is the 92654 Jefferson model made of Corfam?
No its not Corfam. It’s a corrected calfskin. Its basically the same leather that AE calls polished cobbler.
Do you have any information on the Florsheim imperial 93637 longwing?
Here’s one from ebay: longwing, brown, green script“Royal Imperial by Florsheim” on yellow, but with a single pre-1973 flush V- cleat. No legible model number, it seems.
AFAICT, that configuration seems impossible according to this page (you list no single-cleat pre-1973 Royal Imperial longwings)
Any ideas?
link
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Florsheim-Imperial-619126-GO-Longwing-Shoes-Gunboat-Kenmoor-Vintage-9-1-2-D-/334324060684?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
The heel is replaced. Its not original. Looks like a 1990s 97625 model.
Aha—thanks!
92328 Imperials EE date code, safe to assume they’re corrected cobbler from 84 ? They’re fairly worn debating if it’s worth a full resole or just wear them til they can’t be worn.
Yes, the 92328 was made in the 1980s.
Found a pair of Florsheim 97625’s that have a v cleat flush with the heel of the shoe, but its from 1996 considering the embossed theater style logo and the date code… any reason why its flush and not and insert?
The heel was likely replaced. If it is flush, it is not original to the pair.
Hello. I have searched everywhere to find the definition of Cortez leather, is it another name for Patent Leather, What is Colonial Leather? I just picked up a pair of Florsheim 31648, the ones you said “ I couldn’t imagine they sold much of these” they look like a 70’s vintage but they don’t have the date code basically it’s all faded out and there are almost no numbers remaining but you can see they were made in Canada and seem to have a similar construction to Dack’s. They also have cashmere under the tongue. They have original heels and soles. I’m not sure when Florsheim stopped making shoes in Canada. Thanks….Dean
Nazzer29@gmail.com.
The number is 31658 instead of 31648. I have since found out that they are made of Bison Skin. I also don’t know the vintage of these shoes but I am guessing that they are 60’s or 70’s. Any help with these shoes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Dean
Was the 93602 only made in the USA? Were some made in Canada?
Yes, I’ve seen Canadian made pairs of 93602. Manufactured by John McHale.
Hi David,
Great website with lots of valuable info. I’m a veteran eBay seller, but new to selling men’s shoes. I have a pair of brown wingtips in excellent condition that I can’t identify by the numbers inside 11428-221. I think they’re size 12 EEE, so not sure if that’s bad or good. I’ve looked on your lists, but don’t see this number, or anything close. Do you know the name of the style, or where I can look the ID number up? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Stephanie
That’s a modern Florsheim. It is not a vintage shoe. It’s likely not worth much.
David,
I have pairs of 93602s in various shades of “brown”. One pair, for example is an exact match for shoe cream color “London Tan”, while others are a lighter or darker brown. I am not aware of any discussion of this. Is there a code to be cracked?
Florsheim made the 93602 for over 30 years. The upper leather color and quality definitely varied somewhat during that time. I assume they switched suppliers at times. The color may be related to the supplier. But that is a guess.
Was there a specific time period or line/model, i.e., Imperial or Royal Imperial, for which “hand-stained brown” was or was not associated?
Picked up a 96624 on eBay. Stamp on bottom and that little rectangular cutout thing both say royal imperial. Date code is EA. Replacement rubber heel so can’t date based on that. Can I assume these are 1990?
Inside by heel has a lot of wear and discoloration. Is that insole wear or a sock liner lining that can be torn out and replaced? Thanks
David, are you familiar with these Florsheim longwings? Very different.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266440325748
Those are a pair of sharkskin long wings. In brown. It is rare to see a pair like that. They appear to have been made in the 1960s.
These I don’t think are shell–I can’t make out the first digit of the model number but it’s X365–any ideas? Very 1970s font:
https://shopgoodwill.com/item/184288382
Black longwings. model number is def 20330 (NOT 20630)–any ideas?
https://shopgoodwill.com/item/184856371
I have what looks like a 92304 DJ but I cannot find any info on them. Is this an actual model number?
It says 614573 above the 92304 DJ. What year are these? I’m thinking they’re black Balmoral but that’s as far as I could get on my research
Its probably a mislabeled 92604. Sometimes there are typos in the model number.