Vintage Florsheim Model Numbers

Florsheim Model Numbers 1950s-90s

The information in this post covers the 1950s to the 1990s. During these years, Florsheim dominated the dress shoe market in the United States. The company produced some great (and not so great), shoes during that period. These vintage Florsheim shoes are sought after by men’s dress shoe enthusiasts and are commonly bought and sold on eBay.

I have never worked for Florsheim but I have bought and sold hundreds of pairs vintage Florsheim shoes. So the information I am providing in this post has largely been gathered from first hand experience, old Florsheim catalogs and some research done by a number of awesome Japanese shoe bloggers. If you buy or sell vintage Florsheim shoes, you should find this information useful. I hope!

Looking for info on Shell Cordovan models? Visit this post which has a complete list of Florsheim’s vintage Shell Cordovan models. And read my guide to buying a Florsheim Imperial 93605.

I have a post on buying vintage shoes which explains to what to look for when buying a pair.

Shoe Manufacturing Codes

So let’s start by looking at all the numbers and letters you typically find in a vintage Florsheim. These will be on the inner right side of the shoe.Florsheim Model Number

10 1/2 D – Size information. US sizing
654543 – An order/sequence number but I don’t believe the value is unique. The same number should appear in the left and right shoe
15 – Factory/manufacturer code (pretty sure)
93631 – This is the model number (Golden Harvest)
GH – Month/Year code (more on this below)

Date of Manufacture

Florsheim used two letters on the shoes to represent the year and month (see discussion). The first character is the month (A=January, B=February, and so on). The second character is the last digit of the year (A=0, B=1, etc). In the 1950s, the month was a letter but the year was a number (i.e. “D9”).

So in the example above, GH would be July of the year 7. Is that 1997 or 1987 or 1977 or 1967? I am guessing it is 1977. This was a model produced in the 1960s and 1970s and this particular shoe has a post-1973 v-cleat (more on that later).

Unfortunately for us, Florsheim decided to use a single character to represent the year. So its difficult to date Florsheim shoes to the year without knowing the years the model was produced. And that information is hard to come by. More on that later.

I made this date calculator to help you decode the possible dates:
Enter Florsheim Date Code (Upper Case):



A few dating clues that can help you (see examples at the bottom of the page):

  • The Imperial Kenmoor 92604 and 93602 (the two most common Florsheim Imperial models on eBay) were produced from 1957 to 1988
  • Most of the Royal Imperial models you see on eBay (97623, 97624, 97625, 97626), were made in the 1990s
  • If the numbering looks old and is black, it is likely from the 1950s or 1960s
  • In Imperial models after 1973, the v-cleat position is inset within the heel toplift. Before that, the v-cleat was flush with the outside of the heel. The pre-1973 heels were stacked leather while in the later heels, just the toplift was leather (see examples at the bottom of the page)
  • In 1993 and after, some models are labelled “Made in USA”. This was probably done to distinguish them from “Made in India” models
  • Theater like Florsheim corporate logo appeared in shoes ~1992
  • Rectangle Florsheim corporate logo appeared in 1997
  • Models labelled with “Assembled in USA” started in 1997
  • “Custom Grade” models were made in Spain in the 1980s
  • If the shoes have a date code and the second character is a number (i.e. “D9”), the shoes were made in the 1950s
  • My mostly complete list of calfskin long wing models has some dating information
Model Number Details

From 1957 to 2002, the model number was a 5 digit code. The first reference I saw for this 5 digit number system was in a February 1957 ad, but it may have started in late 1956. Prior to those years, the models usually started with “S” (Stock) or “F” and were followed by 4 digits. So if you find a shoe with that pattern of model number, you know it is 60+ years old. Nice find.

For non-Imperial line models, the first digit of the model number signifies the color if the digit is 2, 3, 4 or 8. For Imperials, the second digit is the color code. I see no pattern for models starting with 5, 6, or 7. Here is what I have gathered:

2nnnn Black, Gray
3nnnn Brown, Wine, Tan, Gold, Burgundy
4nnnn White
8nnnn Blue
92nnn Imperial Black
93nnn Imperial Brown (not black)
96nnn Royal Imperial Black
97nnn Royal Imperial Brown (not black)

What about number 1? I haven’t seen any models starting with 1. Modern Florsheim shoe model numbers (2002+), usually start with a 1 though. Maybe that’s why they chose it.

The third digit is a style code. Again, this what I have seen in the wild:

nn0nn Loafer, Monk
nn1nn Loafer, Boot, Monk
nn2nn Loafer, Boot
nn3nn Balmoral
nn4nn Loafer, Boot
nn5nn Loafer, Boot
nn6nn Blucher
nn7nn Blucher
nn8nn Blucher
nn9nn No pattern

With this information for example, you can categorize the handsome 20305 as a Black Balmoral:
Florsheim 20305

What about the shoe last? Allen Edmonds encodes the last into the model number, did Florsheim? I don’t believe so. I have found no mention of lasts in any Florsheim ads/materials.

This numbering schema was fairly consistent until the early 1990s. There was probably some guy on the product team making sure the model numbers conformed to this system. In the 90s, older model numbers started getting reused, Royal Imperials became Imperials. Model number anarchy! Why? I assume it was because that “guy” was probably laid off.

Country of Origin

Where was this shoe made? There is no “Made in…” label on the inside. If the shoe doesn’t have a country of origin, the shoe was most likely made in the USA. Made in India shoes will say “Made in India”. Florsheim also made shoes in Canada, Italy, Brazil, China, Australia, and Spain. So if you are listing a Florsheim shoe on eBay to sell, enter “United States” as the country of manufacture when listing a shoe without a “Made in …” label. Canadian Florsheim shoes have a maple leaf on the insole.

Names and Custom Model Numbers

Very occasionally you might see names and non-standard model number numbers in Florsheim shoes. These are made to order (MTO) models and are unique in some ways. I once purchased a split toe Imperial model with the model code of “3F-2397X” and the seller told me it was a special order from the Chicago Florsheim store.

Vintage Florsheim custom codeVintage Florsheim MTO

Florsheim Customer Service

I have received vintage shoe information in the past from Allen Edmonds, Footjoy and Johnston and Murphy. Allen Edmonds even has many of their old catalogs freely available on the web. When I emailed Florsheim Customer Service to see if they could share any information on past models, they sent me this response:
Florsheim Customer Service

I didn’t actually send a model number in my email so the customer service response made no sense but I got their point. I assumed they won’t help with my pre-1952 shoes as well. The message content is a non sequitur and ironic since Florsheim puts “Established 1892”, not “2002”, in their logo. But feel free to email Florsheim customer service and maybe you will get a positive response. If not, I am happy to help with vintage Florsheim questions, you can email me via the contact form or leave a comment below.

Examples

Shoes from the 50s and 60s had this style of print. This example is from a Florsheim Varsity 20686 produced in October 1965 (JF)
Florsheim 20686 date code

If the v-cleat is flush with outside of heel it was produced before 1973
Vintage Florsheim V-Cleat

Inset v-cleats indicate the shoe was made in 1973 or after. Florsheim Imperial 93602 from March 1980 (CA):
Florsheim 92604 heel inset v-cleat

If your shoes have this theater like logo, they were produced after 1992. Florsheim Imperial 97625 from May 1996 (EG):
Florsheim EG

“Made in USA” started in 1993. This Florsheim Imperial is from January 1997 (AH):
Florsheim AH

“Assembled in USA” started in 1997. Florsheim Imperial 97625 from December 1998 (LI):
Florsheim Assembled in USA

This logo and heel construction was introduced in 1997. Florsheim Imperial 97626 from August 1997 (HH):
Florsheim Imperial 1997 logo and heel


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250 thoughts on “Florsheim Model Numbers 1950s-90s”

  1. I own a pair of shoes with markings like those shown in the last photo where the model number is marked 97625 but the shoes are labeled simply “Florsheim Imperials” as you noted in the photo caption. From what I’ve learned on this site, that particular model number would have previously been associated with a Royal Imperial shoe. Do you have any idea at what point in time Florsheim dropped the Royal Imperial line from their offerings? Strange that they would keep the model number. Perhaps the lasts used were the Royal Imperial lasts, but with no more of the Royal Imperial branding?

    1. Of the 97625 models I have seen, and I have seen a lot, 1996 was the first year I saw Florsheim drop the “Royal” prefix for the 97625. Build wise, it looks like the same shoe to me but with a different liner color. The heel is slightly different. I believe Florsheim eliminated the shoe bags when it became an Imperial.

  2. Great source of information. I just picked up a great pair of 96032 BG loafers made in Italy and everything here matched up perfectly. The only thing that appears different is that the insole has THE ROYAL IMPERIAL in gold letters and an image of a royal scepter. I’d love to know when that logo was used. I figure they are either 1966 or 1976.

      1. Thanks for the quick response David. I think you are right about the date. They definitely exude a sort of disco Saturday Night Fever vibe : )

  3. Hi,
    Thanks for your interesting article here. I have a mystery that I have not been able to solve after reading all above. I have a split toe, five eyelet shoe with a heel stamped: The Florsheim Shoe. The interior numbers are as follows: 9C 651202 1392, with the following markings on the leather insole: K union made 2 (with a circle around the 2). I can send photos. Please help!

  4. to add to the above note:
    I have the original box bottom with the label that reads:
    1392 Warwick Bro Calf Blu Ox 9C

    1. That pair was likely made in the late 1940s or early 1950s. Rare shoes. You can send your email address via the contact form.

  5. Thanks for the great site!

    I just picked up a pair of 93605. The only stamped information is the size and model number. There is no sequence number, factory code, date code, or country of manufacture stamped on either shoe. The footbed logo is the older style (although very worn and unclear). The heels and sole have been replaced so no clues there.

    Any idea when these shoes may have been made? And why no date stamp?

  6. Hello!

    I have a brown pebble grain split toe that has the model 7S3379 BH on the inside. Any idea when these might have been made? They are labeled Florsheim Imperials with the pre 90s sole label.

  7. Hi
    I just found a pair of split toe, 5 eyelet Imperials in brown. They have two cleats inset flush with the heel (same as the black ones in your other article). The code next to the size is “312489” and the code below is OF 3396 LA. The text is in black and pretty clear. I have searched everywhere for some information on this model but can’t find anything. Do you have any ideas?

    Thanks and love your site!

      1. Sounds like the same model described in Ray’s comments above. You can send me a photo using david at vcleat dot com

  8. Great informative site you have! I have a pair with the number 30813 HB. The insole has a round logo (too worn to make much out other than Florsheim Shoe(?) and Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. Any idea of a year/decade/style? Thanks.

    1. I also purchased Florsheim wingtip, 636455, bottom number is 30811 HB flexible fibre. The shoe was re heeled so the V cleat is not there, original sole though so yes, there are some 6 digits out there. Have no idea what year this is . Any Fkoyd

  9. I just purchased a pair of Florsheim v-cleat wingtips the model number is 634605. Any information would be appreciated.

  10. I have a pair of Florsheims with the model number 75291. Any idea of the model or where I could get info about them?

  11. I recently purchased a pair of Royal Imperial model 96614 with a date code of KD. They have a split leather/rubber heel. Do you have any information on the type of leather, years produced, etc.? Thanks in advance!

    1. That model was made in the early to mid-1970s. The leather was likely what Florsheim called “Coventry Calf”. Not 100% on that. I have read a few people saying it was Bison or Buffalo. They could be right. Or wrong.

  12. Wow, what a great article and fount of refreshing knowledge you are! I have a pair of Florsheim Imperial loafers that I think are deerskin, I’d call them bit loafers, except the bit is a leather twist, like a beefroll. The code inside is 18332. They are like these http://ebay.to/2ncw1ct but tan leather with no canvas. Can you help me, Obi Wan?

    1. Sorry but I don’t have any info on that model. Since the model number starts with 1, they were likely made after 2002. You might email Florsheim customer service for model info.

  13. Do you know the locations of all 14 Florsheim factories that operated in the 1970’s? Were any located in TN?

    thanks

    Rob

    1. No I don’t. I spent a day once trying to align the manufacturing code in the shoe with the plant. No luck. The internet failed me. Again.

  14. I have a curious shoe. It appears to be a black shell cordovan Imperial shoe with the Theater like logo inside and says “made in USA. However, the model number seems to be missing. The information found on the inside of the shoe is 7 1/2 — D– 355175–2. Below that where the model number should be there is nothing except HG– made in the USA. Additionally it has a vcleat that is flush with the outside of the heal. I can send photos once I figure out how to do so… or send them to you directly. Thoughts?

    1. That’s probably a mid-90s model. Florsheim produced black shell cordovan long wings in the 90s but they must have been special runs or MTO. Thus no model number. You can send me a photo at david at vcleat dot com.

  15. I bought a pair of vintage Florsheim Oxford-Spectators and have no idea what year they are from. Could you tell me based on the numbers inside?
    361094 14
    31325 JH

    1. I looked and have no information on the 31325 model but its likely from 67 or 77. If you send me some photos at david at vcleat dot com, i will take a look at them.

      1. Hey David, I will send you pictures of my pair that I just bought. 636455 HB. And 30811 is the bottom number. Was re heeled..so no v cleat present. Sole is still original. Any idea what year.

  16. Great info! I just found a pair that are marked 773606 and have a name instead of a size. Does this mean they were custom made for someone? Any idea what year they are from? Thank you!

    1. If the shoes have a name then they made to order. Is there a date code in the shoe? If so, that helps with dating them.

  17. Hi, i bought a pair of vintage imperial quality with code 7 3E 1059 03 09 under these numbers is another numbers & letters code 7392 DI. Any idea what year is this? Thank you.

  18. I found a pair of brown shoes in great shape, stored in a bag with shoe trees for likely over 40 years. The model number is S1356 followed by COMB. Where can I find out about these?

    1. I have an old 1951 Florsheim catalog and found the pair. The model is called “The Stroller”. So the pair was likely made in the later 40s or early 50s.

      1. Thanks for your quick reply. This is very helpful. The shoes really don’t show any sign of wear creases in the leather at all, and are not scuffed. The leather is in great shape. The soles have only very light wear. The laces need to be replaced, but I could easily wear them now.

  19. I found a pair of Florsheim Idlers Boots in a thrift store yesterday. Numbers are 11 B 760790 19 and 70022 GH. Any info would be great!

  20. I found your article quite helpful. Thank you for all the research you have done. The number is 97318 AJ. Sounds like that is a Royal Imperial Brown Balmoral from January ending in a 9. There is no v-cleat that I can see and no “made in” marking. Best guess of the age?

  21. I own a pair of Florsheim longwings marked 436I4 DG (The “I” is the letter, not the number “one”). These are single sole, partially lined spectators with white scotch grain combined with smooth, dark brown leather. Based on the code DG, I’m guessing these are made in 1966. Or was Florsheim still making spectators in 1976?

  22. Hi David.

    I can’t find any information on a pair of Florsheim longwings. The inside say “designed and made expressively for Florsheim shoe shops”. They are made in Czechoslovakia and stamped:
    8 1/2 EEE 37 8194 CN 647
    710510 04240 7681
    6239

    Any ideas?

  23. Thanks for all the interesting info!
    How about:

    1st row says: 9D 532285 029 01
    2nd row says: 30580 GI 30 F

    I have a pic, but unsure how to attach it here!
    Thanks so much!

  24. Hi,
    Thank you for your time.
    Could you please tell me the factory correct edge color for the Florsheim Imperial hand stained brown calf skin also the Golden Harvest?
    Regards,
    Ben Coller

  25. Hello, Although the printed name is visible the style numbers or size are not visible at all. I wonder if these are custom made shoes. I need some help determining what model and age that these Florseheim’s are. These Black Shell Cordovan Florsheim Imperial Derby’s have 5 eyelets, Full Goodyear Welt, V-Plate Heel.
    The nails have been removed on the heel and partly covered with heel savers. The v-cleat position is inset within the heel top lift. The plate does show on back bottom of the heel. Have hand peg shank, calf skin lining.
    Insole reads “The Florsheim Shoe” “Imperial Quality” on the insole.. On the upper inside of one shoe there is an oval design inset that reads “Florsheim Imperial”. They are in Very nice condition. Please send instructions to send a photo. I would greatly appreciate any information you can give me.
    Fran

    1. Hello, I recently purchased a pair of royal imperials in black. The model number is 96371 CC. These are an oddity as far as I can tell. They are a full wing brogue loafer with tassels in black. I have followed your page for awhile and haven’t seen such a thing anywhere. They have the cepter logo in the heel cup and a rubber heel.

      1. I looked through my catalogs and couldn’t find that model. It don’t have every year. Likely made in the 1990s based on the model number.

  26. Dear David,
    I have a pair of 92604 KI and a similar pair of light brown 8F339200 JI. Any clue as to the significance of the numbers in the latter pair?
    Thanks in advance.

  27. Re-reading your Golden Harvest and burgundy shell oxford posts, it seems the pair in question are a pair of special run Golden Harvests.

    Will send pics when I can. Thanks again.

  28. Hi, I have a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperials boots. I have been reading all he previous chats but nothing that tells me about this boot. On the bottom sole it says(in a triangle) “ISSI Italia” and made in Itay. On the inside of boot it has numbers-11c 826255
    96092 LF, Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Kelly

  29. I have a pair of Footage in shoes. Model number 21103 JI. I found them in one of your other post in the catalogs so they were made in Oct 67-69. Are they worth selling?

  30. Hi, I have a pair of Florsheim shoes. The info is below. I saw this model number in your article saying it was produced in the 60s and 70s. With it being a less common model, Iā€™ve had trouble finding the value of these shoes. If there is any info you can provide, I would appreciate your help so much! I can send pictures if youā€™d like. Feel free to email me at traci.m.warren@gmail.com and Iā€™ll also bookmark this page to keep an eye out for your reply.

    10 1/2 D 602545 21
    30736 KB

    1. Great model but not highly sought after. It’s the same model as the main photo of this post. Its worth $50 to $80 depending on condition.

      1. Thank you! Yeah these shoes are amazing! Heavy as tanks, but in a good way. Ridiculously amazing craftsmanship compared to high-end shoes I see today. Really appreciate your insight, and now I know a good asking price, although my boyfriend is begging to keep them! šŸ™‚

  31. Hello,

    Love having access to all of your information. I do have a question about a pair of Florsheim’s I recently acquired. The number in the shoe is 97622. Wanted to know if you had ever found any information on that shoe. Looks like they will make a great addition to the rest of my vintage Florsheim’s. Date code puts them at a 1998 vintage. Any info you would have would be great.

    Thanks so much.

  32. There is a pair on ebay, too narrow unfortunately, that have a green on gold inset Royal Imperial by Florsheim. Wondering when that was used.
    9 B 603141
    97324 L B

  33. You would love to know me I work for Florsheim from 1962 until 1985 I worked under Lou b r i e n who ran all 409 Men’s Stores I still know every number and color of Florsheim shoes no matter which one there is any style after all of these years talk to me my email is r o u g h r i d i n t e d d y at gmail.com

  34. Hi David, I came into a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperials with a serial of 96308 DC, which puts the manufacture at April 19×2. Insole has “The Royal Imperial Florsheim Shoe” scepter logo; both that logo and the serial number are stamped in gold lettering. I’m thinking they’re most likely 1982 vintage, judging by some of the info I was able to get from your site, but I would like to nail down the year for sure if possible. Any thoughts? Thanks!

  35. Hi. I have a pair of Florsheim loafers with dated numbers
    any ideal when these were produced please? thanks.

    11 C 290965 14
    36551

  36. Hi David, I was wondering if you could help me out. I’ve looked everywhere and I can’t find any reference to my model # anywhere.

    It’s a Royal Imperial (scepter logo) model 97327 EC. Black lettering with the same style of print as your 50’s/60’s example up top, but the heel construction looks like your 1997 example (97626). I would think it was a 60’s model with a new heel, but the inside of the shoe looks almost brand new as well. Could it just be a very well taken care of 60’s model? I can also email pictures if needed.

    Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!

      1. Thank you! There is literally no info anywhere that I could find. Are they rare or just not very desirable?

  37. Hi David – thanks for providing all of this information.

    I picked up a pair of Florsheim shoes at an estate sale – they look vintage, are 6-eyelet, and have no markings like you mention in your info, so I’m wondering if that’s because they might be custom made?
    The only markings on inside side of the shoe are 40 3 832256
    On the inside bottom of the shoe it is marked L Union Made 3.
    In addition to the The Florsheim Shoe stamp on the inside heel, on the inside back left side of the shoe, there is an inset “The Florsheim Shoe fabric label.

    Do you possibly have any insight on any of that? I’m perplexed by these shoes now!

    Thanks so much!

    1. They sound old. Send me an email with photos and I will try to help. My email is on the contact page.

  38. I purchased a pair of Florsheim tall riding boots at a flea market yesterday for no other reason than they appear to be extremely well-made. I am trying to date them and haven’t been able to find any others like them. They are a size 10 B and bear the number “172581.” Below the size it is marked “S 287(?).” I’ve noted that serial numbers beginning with 1 would indicate post-2002 but these appear to be pretty old. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

  39. I have a couple Florsheim Kenmoor shoes I’ve had since the early 1990’s, and I love them. I purchased a vintage pair and did a total restoration at B Nelson and I can’t believe how great they turned out. Tough as nails! I saw a pair in an exotic skin at a thrift store and they were in excellent little worn shape. The suicide heel has been replaced. I’m not sure what they are made from. The lining is black with green stitching. the style number is 95080, I think and the date code is JB.

    Can you tell me anything about this unique find? Treasure or junk?

    1. I don’t have any info on that model. If you have a few photos, I can give you my opinion. My email address is on the contact page.

  40. Hello David. It’s Jorge, from the later posts on the vintage brands thread. Would you mind telling me in what year was made the earliest/oldest pair of long wings you have ever seen/owned/known of that you were actually able to know such date accurately?

    Thank you very much.

    1. I looked through all my catalogs (all manufacturers) from the 1920s forward and the first pair of long wings that I found was the Florsheim S-1405 Viking in a 1951 catalog. I don’t have Florsheim catalogs from the late 1940s.

  41. Hello, David,
    I have a pair of Florsheim cowboy boots, calf, dress black, I purchased new c. 1989. They have small American flags glued to the glove leather lining, and no markings other than the size, and 76104. A guy who seemed to know, suggested they were a limited release commemorating George H. W. Bush’s Presidency. Any information you might have on these would be greatly appreciated. I would love to restore these, but I wouldn’t know where to start. They have steel shanks, leather soles, and rubber heels.

    1. Sorry, I don’t have any info on that pair. Lexol leather cleaner and Bick 4 are my go-tos for restore.

  42. Could you share that catalog with me through a link of your preference if it’s been digitized in any way? It could be useful for my research.

    Thank you for your time, David.

    Have a nice day.

    1. If you send me an email (its on the contact page), I will send you a photo of the pair in the catalog. I don’t have images of the full catalog

      1. What about 92329
        Size 71/2 d 646523 5
        Stacked leather heel I believe
        All black
        Says imperial something

  43. Hello, can I throw a number at you? Model 96626, black Royal Imperial. Code is ED so your date calculator suggests 1983 or 93. They’re really nice and have a deep red interior that looks quite classy.

  44. Hi David,
    I recently picked up a pair of vintage florsheim longwings at a thrift store and was wondering about when they were made. I figured sometime in the 70s just based on the looks of the. The thing is, they have no date code that I can see. The inside reads as follows: 8 EEE (in cursive lettering, but I asume they’re E’s) 81203 75676 and off the the right it says Man-Made insole. The footbed has the gold stamped logo that reads: The Florsheim Shoe Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. There is no other writing or markings in the shoe that I can see. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thank you.

    1. The 75676 was likely made in the late 1980s or early 1990s. I believe they were sold in non-Florsheim stores like Sears and Kuppenheimers.

  45. Hello, I have 2 pair Kenmore long wing, new in box, that I sold to my father in 1980’s (1984 if I’m reading the date code of CE correctly) , I worked at a Florsheim store! They are not worn! Style 93602 and 92604, 14B. I was wondering their value. Any ideas? Thank you.

    1. That’s some great history on the shoes. They are likely worth $125 to $200 each on ebay. 14 B is not a size many people are looking for so that limits their value and it might a few weeks or month to sell them.

  46. Hi David,

    I have a pair of Florsheim that read 80070 5 EE 680. Could you identify the model and the year they were made?
    Thank you.

  47. Hello, I have been looking for a pair of shoes from my youth. I’m not really sure the correct name or number of these shoes, I always knew them by the name ” Continental Wedges” they
    were black and had white stitching around the sole on top the sole , the sole was a little larger then the shoe so you could see
    the white stitching. The shoe also came in a non wedge that had
    a heel. The heel seemed a little larger with the same white stitching. I was told they were made by Florsheim Shoes. I would like to get a pair or at least a picture , to show my grandson.

    1. Hi Gary, Continental (the German tire company) has also made a variety of rubber soles and heals over the years. They were more common on European shoes. Could Continental Wedge have possibly have been the brand of sole but not the entire shoe? I found a picture and will send it to David. I hope this helps!

  48. Hello
    I’ve found Imperial black longwing model made after 1990s that looks like cordovan. Number is 90160, it has the “Maid in India” label. Is it actually the cordovan or polished leather shoe?

  49. I just purchased two pairs of black wingtips 96624. Both have what appear to be original soles. Both have the v-cleat flush with the edge of the heel. Per what I have read above (and from other sources), I thought they moved in to an inset position in the early 70’s. These shoes would suggest otherwise. Any ideas? Thanks.

    1. They likely are not the original heels. If a cobbler replaces a v-cleat with a new one, the cleat will be placed on the edge of the heel

  50. After I typed my post, I wondered if the heels were indeed originals. They probably aren’t. Thanks for the reply!

  51. Can you help identify my Florsheim:
    664941 18
    10D
    30831 LF
    flexible Fiber
    is it Imperial or not and which year is that?

  52. Hi David,

    I’ve been looking at a pair of black pebble grain longwings at a local thrift store. The original heels (and possibly soles) have been replaced, the logo has been almost completely worn from the insole but from what I can make out it doesn’t appear to have been the “theater” style logo or the circular “the florsheim shoe” stamped gold logo. They have the little window in the lining with “Royal Imperial by Florsheim” in green script. I don’t have any of the numbers on hand as I didn’t purchase them. I was mostly wondering about their quality of construction. They seem solid, though fairly worn. The leather is soft and supple with minimal creasing.

    Thanks

    1. That was a popular black wing tip in the late 80s and early 90s. Upper leather has been corrected. Not a sought after model.

  53. Hello again

    I just found a pair of lightly used Royal Imperial 96623 JJ with 5 nails and a cleat that is inset… I get what the 966 is about… but the last 2 digits have me a little lost.

    1. Its a sequence number. The number incremented as new models came out. There are some gaps in the numbers and it the later years, Florsheim had much less consistency in the model numbers.

      1. Ah, so itā€™s model not type of leather… so these guys cleaned up really well… conditioned and polished. I would like to give them to my son… (they fit him perfectly). Is there a suggestion to put a rubber cap over the heal and maybe the front of the sole so he doesnā€™t have to contend with the term suicide soles?

  54. Hi! I found new Florsheim imperial loafers burgundy color in goodwill
    Size 10
    76449 AF made in India 55
    I canā€™t find any information about
    Any idea?

  55. Hi David,

    Any info on a Florsheim balmoral
    Model 73471
    Date code is IG

    Heel stamp reads, ā€œDesigned and made expressly for Florsheim Shoe Shopā€
    Made in USA

    I canā€™t find too much info on this.
    Thanks!

    1. I don’t have much info on the model other than it being a cap toe bal in scotch grain. Probably made in the 80s but that is a guess.

  56. I’m looking at vintage shell cordovan wingtips that have the v-cleat heel with the cleat at the outer edge (Florsheim pre-1973) but with no other indicators that make it a Florsheim. The model no. appears to be 39757 followed by a 10. There is also an R/C designation. Do you have any idea about the maker and age of these shoes? Much appreciated.

  57. I have a pair of Florsheim golf shoes that look like the style of Foot-Joy wing tip kiltie golf shoes. Not finding any information on my Florsheim style #99013 ED (Size 10) other numbers on inside are 221374 14 and they are brown. VERY nice looking, wanting to find out name/suggested resale pricing if possible. Interior side has an indented logo “The Florsheim Shoe” in blue color. Thanks!

    1. I don’t have any information on the model. Vintage Florsheim golf shoes don’t sell for much. Most people are looking for FootJoy Classics.

  58. Hi David,
    This may be a question with an obvious answer so I apologise in advance, but my recently acquired model 93602 with the V cleat flush to the heel and with an interior date code of EG brings them in as May 1966?
    They’re in stunning condition for the year if so – certainly better than myself who would had have a flush v cleat and a date stamp of FG if humans were manufactured likewise. šŸ™‚
    Thanks
    Mark

    1. Yes, 1966 would likely then be the year. Florsheim didn’t make the model in 1956. And the 1976 version would have the v-cleat inset.

  59. I have been eyeing a pair of Imperial Kenmoors online, number 93602. They have the 5 tacks on the waist but a rubber sole. I was wondering if that rubber sole is typical for that model.
    Thanks!

    1. I assume you mean the heel. Rubber is a common replacement heel for the 93602. The original leather and nail heel has very limited traction.

      1. Thank you for the quick answer David, and I did mean the heel instead of the sole. Sorry for the mistake.
        Many thanks,
        Josh

  60. Brown royal imperial longwings
    97625 BG theater logo(1996)
    Cashmere calf but is it corrected grain leather?thanks

    1. I believe any pebble grain is technically corrected since it is embossed but the 97625 shouldn’t have a bonded plastic finish.

  61. Thanks David.
    Is the 97625 (1996) any good since its corrected pebble grain leather?
    How much would it cost new in box today?

    1. Yes, it’s a very good pair of shoes. Finding a new pair on Ebay is rare and they currently go for $225 to $400.

  62. Really enjoy your site and videos. I have a nice pair of 11 B style 93223 FE wingtip tassel loafers. I believe them to be from June of 75? The logo in the insole says “The Florsheim Shoe” and in sort of a gold ink cloud it says “Imperial Quality” there is also a small green cloth patch in the right shoe that has “Florsheim Imperial” embroidered in white thread. They are a cordovan color…. is it possible that was called “Black cherry” ?? I can see the word “Imperial” on the sole at the instep. They have rubber heels not very worn that say The Florsheim Shoe inside a design that looks sort of like a Chevy logo. I assume these are replacement heels. Do you think I have the date correct? Thank you.

  63. Hi David!Perhaps i could be of help identifying the “florsheim”in the other forum
    (1950’s to 60’s).
    Worthmore by florsheim has same logo as florsheim but says worthmore instead of florsheim.
    Got a pair of worthmore shells but dont know
    how to post pics.

    1. The comments section doesn’t support posting photos but you can include one hyperlink (to a webpage or photo).

  64. Loving your articles, David!

    What did you mean by this ā€œ If the shoes have a date code and the second character is a number (i.e. ā€œD9ā€), the shoes were made in the 1950sā€ can you show an example?

  65. I have a pair of kenmoor scotch grain leather
    inside i can see 71/2 3E 331640 10 onthe first line
    on the second 78007 A F made in U.S.A

    Have you got any thing about that

    I m in France and ireceive the pair from Italy

    1. The 78007 is a quality brown, plain toe blucher. It’s very similar to the Royal Imperial 97623. It was likely made in the 1990s.

  66. I have just bought a pair of 93602’s with code IJ next to it.
    The v-cleat is flush with the outside of the heel but there is not one single nail on the heel. I am not really sure if they have been resoled of not.
    Am I right in guessing they are from 1969 ?
    Thanks for your advice.

  67. I have a pair of Florsheim loafers that belonged to my father. I am guessing they are from the 80’s or 90’s and have a rubber sole. They don’t look like the high quality Florsheim of old but just for the heck of it the numbers on the inside are listed below. Any info yoi can give me would be greatly appreciated!

    76323
    AH
    Made in India

  68. Hi David,
    I’ve been looking on ebay for vintage long wings, and I stumbled upon a pair of interesting looking florsheims. The inside reads 622462 2
    30736 EE
    They have rubber heels with 8 nails in them, and the circular gold florsheim logo on the insole. They are not pebble grain and have no binding. They look similar to a few of the models you have on your list, but I wasn’t sure. Any thoughts?

    Thanks

  69. I just noticed the 30736 on your list. It’s interesting however that this pair doesn’t look like bookbinder. Did they make any in another kind of leather I wonder?

    1. That model uses a soft calfskin. It’s not corrected leather. Florsheim called the leather Bookbinder in their catalogs for the model. Not sure why.

  70. Hi David, can you help me date my 93602’s? The date marked is KD, so it’s 64, 74, 84 (no “made in America” so not 94)The soles have been replaced with nitrile soles so that’s no help. The logo on the heel is long gone. “Florsheim Imperial” gold stitching on a green field for the cloth label.
    I’m hoping the liner color will be the give away. These are a dark brown and the date stamp is white lettering. I see a pair of your 93602 in another post from the 80’s has the yellow liners so I’m figuring mine are 64 or 74.
    Ideas?
    PS – I found them on ebay for a song, looking ugly and covered in dark polish. Renomat and Bick 4 have them looking amazing again, so thanks for showing the way on that front as well.

    1. Based on your description of the construction, they were likely made in 1973. The lining was often dark brown during the early 1970s.

  71. David,

    I love your website. Recently, I thrifted a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperials. They’re black cap toes and are labelled as 96316 GE.

    The leather almost feels like goat (kid) skin it’s so soft/supple.

    Do you know anything about this model and what sort of leather I am actually dealing with here?

      1. I couldn’t find 96316 in my catalogs. It must have been produced for a year or so in the mid-1980s.

  72. Hello…I have a pair of brown saddle Imperials, model number 7S338. They appear to be identical to the brown saddles you have listed under the shell models. Are you familiar with this model number? Thanks and great site!

  73. Hello, I just acquired a vintage kenmoor 92604 and the lining is black, letters are FF, any idea on which date they were made ? Didn’t see any with black lining on v-cleat

  74. Hi David,

    Was wondering if you might have some information on some old Florsheim’s I recently purchased. The interior leatherā€™s color is burgundy is very soft. By the lettering, which is in gold, the model no. Is 96319 JI and factory no.1? There also isnā€™t any ā€œmade inā€ marking in either shoe which leads me to believe it was made in the USA, just not sure of the year? I was wondering if you might have any information?

  75. I have a question similar to one earlier this month…
    I’m looking at a pair of Florsheim Imperials with black lining and yellow print. The thread in the lining is green and the mini patch on the walls of the lining read “Royal Imperial BY FLORSHEIM” with green text and yellow background. This isn’t a longwing, otherwise I would reference the LWB guide. This a wingtip balmoral model 97323 and I’m hoping you can help me find the decade at the least. The two letters for the month and last digit of the year are not legible, unfortunately. If you find the time to respond, thank you.

    1. The 97323 was a popular model made in the late 1980s and early 1990s. It was called the Kenmoor. The upper leather was listed as Heritage Calf.

      1. That’s interesting. Would that eliminate the possibility of them being correct grain leather? My eyes are not too adept at discerning full grain from corrected grain leathers yet. You’re the only resource I can access about these, who knows where you find this stuff. Thanks again.

      2. It’s a quality corrected grain leather. Sometimes similar leathers are called polished cobbler.

  76. Hello David,
    I was wondering if you had any info about Florsheim models circa 60s through 90s that were not longwings. I’d like to pick up a pair of vintage wingtip bald and am unsure what models to look for and which ones to stay away from.
    Thank you

    1. In general, the Imperial and Royal Imperial shoes were well made during the 70s and onward. Shoes in the late 1990s dropped in quality quite a bit.

  77. David…
    Youā€™ve correctly interpreted the Florsheim stamped manufacturing codes info in the example:
    10 1/2 D 654543 15
    93631 G11

    The 654543 is initially known as a batch number in factory parlance but ultimately the shoeā€™s lining number upon completion. In Florsheim factories, twelve pairs of the exact same style, size, color of a model were produced at a time and all twelve stamped with the same lining number.

    Youā€™re correct there is no encoding of last numbers in Florsheim stock numbers. Each different last had a 3 digit ID number, but for the public lasts had names instead.

    A pair of Florsheims with someoneā€™s named stamped on the quarter lining are extremely rare, but Iā€™d be interested if that translates into any additional value these days?

    Personally I wouldnā€™t understand it but if someoneā€™s dying to get their hands on a pair of Kenmoor long wings in the incredible Golden Harvest hue, look to the Carolinas as they were a big regional favorite.

  78. Hello David
    Great website I bought a pair of florsheim Imperials at a thrift store last year and having a problem dating them
    D 10 G21036 27
    77632
    from reading your articles it seems like the 7xxxxx numbers were sold at the outstores. Any help would be great

    Thanks in advance

  79. Hi David,
    Probably not to the extent of your shoe collection but I’m at the stage of ‘discovering’ vintage longwings in boxes that I’d forgotten I’d bought. One pair today has intrigued me. They’re a Florsheim 92604 with an AH date code. This printed in black. Though on their original soles the heels have been replaced so there’s no tell-tale V cleat positioning. These don’t have the regular Florsheim ‘logo’ insole of any variety but rather a shield/crest device under which “HAND BENCHED & HAND FINISHED BY CRAFTSMEN”. I’ve not got another pair of Florsheim’s like this nor seen any. Any thoughts or idea of manufacture date? For the record the right inner has the green cloth ‘Florsheim Imperial’ oval.
    Thanks!

  80. From you articles, I decided to bid on a very lightly used Florsheim wingtip oxford in cordovan (the color, not the leather), model# 30300, in my size. Nobody bid against me so even with tax and shipping, the pair was to my door for less than $15. Boy am I happy with my purchase. While not top of the line, these are beautifully made shoes. I gave them a standard clean and shine, and wound up with a spit shine with very little effort on my part. I will be keeping my eye out for Florsheims from now on. Thanks for the tip!

  81. Came across a pair of Florsheim Imperial loafers after my brother-in-law passed away. The have never been worn, are dark brown, and the only info stamped in black on the inside of the shoe is: 34 436046 109 01.
    Any help with this would be appreciated.
    Thank you

  82. David, thanks for this site… it’s a truly wonderful resource and a terrific labor of love.

    I have in my possession two pairs of Florsheim “Tuscany” tassel loafers, model 93231, date EF. 10D. They’re absolutely pristine–never been worn. I believe they’re shell, but I’m not sure. Is there any way to learn more about this particular model, or their worth?

  83. Hello David

    I recently bought a pair of Florsheim longwing 75676 in a brown scotch grain leather and I had some questions about the shoe

    What year was this shoe made?

    How would you compare the quality of this shoe to other models of the imperial or royal imperial collections?

    Is the leather in the shoe good ?

    Overall , I was thinking of getting the shoes resoled and restored , do you think this pair is worthwile of doing so ?

    Thanks and very nice website

    1. Its a mid-range shoe in terms of quality. I believe they were sold in Florsheim factory outlets in the 1980s and 1990s. The Imperials will have better construction and materials.

  84. Hello again David

    Sorry about this extra comment ,
    but I forgot to ask about the leather quality on the 75676 longwing , and if you know from what tannery did they source it from ?

  85. Hi
    Could you please advise what year the following shoes are? And the cost? They are vintage !
    11. 3E. 421779. 24
    3F. 2660. FC

  86. Found pair of Blue Label black short wings with a 3 digit model number. 625 with a date code of GJ. Tan lining with a tan full length leather insole. Any thoughts on these? I thought the model number had to be 5 digits if it had the 2 letter date code.

  87. Wondering how I can find the model number of a pair of Florsheim boots? Iā€™m looking for a specific pair of boots and canā€™t find any information on them. I have pictures of them but cannot get those pictures here so you can see what Iā€™m looking atā€¦..any help would be greatly appreciated.

      1. Hi David,

        I actually sent you an inquire through the contact page last week. Not sure how to get these pictures to you so I can get some information on them. Iā€™m looking for the shaft height measurement as well as the heel height measurement.

  88. 40351
    Made in India labelled in the tongue
    and 34642006 inside

    Any info on this model? the sock linear looks stitched into the mid sole

  89. Hi David! I just purchased a nice pair of 93605 on Ebay. The thing that I find odd is that the interior leather lining is black instead of tan. I have never seen that model with that color of lining. Reference number is 642824 17 (93605 EF).

    Also, last year I purchased a 93602…with 7 nails instead of 5. I know that Dack’s used to add 7 nails on their outsoles but I never saw that in a Florsheim. And it was not a John McHale canadian made model…

    Any clues on those questions?

    Thank you very much!

    1. The black lining in the 93605 was made in the mid-80s. The seven nail sole is likely a factory mistake. I have a pair like that.

  90. Hi David, I Just bought a pair of Florsheims with these numbers 651649 OF 33898-8 DB
    Can you help with the id on these?
    Thanks in advance

  91. In the early 90’s, I bought a pair of Florsheim’s (black win tips) that had something called Spring Thrust, or Thrust Forward…not sure of the name, but when wearing them, it made you feel as if you were walking downhill, or being pushed forward. Best shoes I ever had. Would you happen to know this particular shoe, and maybe what model it was? Would love to find a pair (or 5!) of these! Thanks!! Gary

    1. I remember a dressy work shoe called Forward Thrust, from perhaps the 1960s or 1970s, that boasted those walking characteristics. I do not remember it being from Florsheim, but then, I don’t recall who did make it.

  92. What a great resource! Would you be able to tell me anything about an Imperial 93359? Other than the size and “Made in Italy”, this is all that is printed on the inside. They are a beautiful brown wing (not long)tip.

  93. Picked up a pair of 97125 Ritz loafers from 1978 (fairly certain), they were poorly photographed (in b&w?) and poorly described (“used – good to fair” without the word “Florsheim”). Imagine my happy surprise when they arrived NIB. Photos here:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/4R5mo8NC83H8a4T29
    Any additional info on the style? Seems fairly unusual and perhaps not much of a seller since it was purchased at a discount chain.
    There were 2 sets of the shoe bags in the box, was that normal?
    Love your site, the search tool has been a great addition.
    Thanks,
    Austin

  94. Thanks David. I was leaning towards 78 because of the copyright date on the insert but that makes more sense.

  95. Wow, this thread is still going!?
    I picked up a pair recently with the following:

    “Leather upper & soles
    Balance man made materials”

    10 D 41323
    6S73890 ā€“ G(?)

    Any help/info is appreciated!

  96. Iā€™m looking for any info available on a Florsheim beef roll loafer with a natural crepe sole from the early 50ā€™s. Access to a catalog or photo would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, and happy to cover any chargesā€¦,
    Alan
    Pjprovo1@aol.com

  97. Hi
    I have a pair of Florsheim Royal imperial longwing size 12.5D unworn. The only reference is strange :7808 and there is a name. I suppose it was a special order.
    Is there any possibility to know which type of leather it is.

  98. Hello, I am commenting from Japan. My father gave me a pair of Florsheims 93602 made in October 1975 and I bought another pair myself recently.

    However, the logo is,
    E 8 1/2 033061 29
    93602 (NO ALPHABET!)

    I could tell that they were made in Canada because the width was written first, but I have no idea when in the world this pair was made.

    The “FLORSHEIM IMPERIAL” is written in the small green window.

  99. Hi David,
    I purchased a Florsheim “cordovan ox-blood”(as ad indicated)shoe, v-cleat, original sole. The inside is black with the heel label “The Florsheim Shoe ” above a “Imperial Quality”. In white letters and numbers, the model is 5F33939-0 and date code is FF(May 95 ??) . Above is the usual size and other: 10 D 648567 9.
    Looking at your model and date codes, I couldn’t find anything 5F33939-0. I was hoping you might be able to identify this shoe. Thanks for creating a great resource and vcleat.com has become a infectious site. šŸ™‚

  100. Hi David,
    What is the ā€œCordo Cortezā€ leather on the 30831 Varsity, and is it a decent shoe? I havenā€™t been able to find much information on the ā€˜80s Varsity models, just wanted to know more about them.
    Thanks in advance.

  101. Thanks David for this website. I was able to score 2 93602s in my size relatively quickly. Is there anything you do to the footbed? The footbeds on the 2 93602s still have clear Florsheim labels. But, on 1 pair, the previous user of the shoes has left a big impression of their big toes. It’s not so bothersome, but I was thinking a cobbler could put a thin pad on the toe half of the shoes.

  102. I just found an almost mint pair of 93605 FA with the flush cleat in a small lost thrift store in a small town in Northern California. They are still out there. Iā€™m trying to figure out if these would be 1960 or 70.

    Thank you David for this website, I always come back to it years after years.

  103. David, I have combed thru your website, especially this page, but cannot decipher my model number 33605. Except to verify that they are Imperial burgundy bluchers. You have tons of 93605 examples, but they bear no resemblance to mine, which are plain toe with a stitched leather sole & rubber heel that says “the Florsheim Shoe”. The lining is black leather with gold scroll “Imperial Quality” logo and a green “Florsheim Imperial” tag. FWIW, I saw a 1941 catalog with the same design, but in brown listed as The Milburn. I inherited these from my grandfather who owned clothing stores in Los Angeles in the 60’s & 70’s. The date code is IF and there is no country of origin. So, 1975? They look as if he wore them a couple times and carefully. I’m stymied trying to value them, without a model name. Thanks for any help. I can send pics if you wish.

  104. Hello I just picked up a pair Florsheims 75824 has the made in India print and the production letters LC. Doesnā€™t have the theater style logo with the bottom of the shoe having a rubber heel with a leather bottom any information would help. Just trying to see when they were produced. Thanks

  105. I bought a V cleat 5 nail Kenmoor plain toe in black cashmere calf. The 92611 code (with JG) tells me it was made in either 76 or 86? as the V cleat is set in from the edge of the heel. I have worn them once to a wedding, Can you tell me anything about these?

  106. Hello,

    I found florsheim shoes at a flea market. The shape is wingtip but has a side pattern like a balmoral.

    Has serial number 33349 IA and made in India.

    I’ve been looking for this model on the internet but couldn’t find it, but I found the only one on ebay.

    Can you help me tell what model this is?

    Thank you

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