Vintage Florsheim Model Numbers

Florsheim Model Numbers 1950s-90s

The information in this post covers the 1950s to the 1990s. During these years, Florsheim dominated the dress shoe market in the United States. The company produced some great (and not so great), shoes during that period. These vintage Florsheim shoes are sought after by men’s dress shoe enthusiasts and are commonly bought and sold on eBay.

I have never worked for Florsheim but I have bought and sold hundreds of pairs vintage Florsheim shoes. So the information I am providing in this post has largely been gathered from first hand experience, old Florsheim catalogs and some research done by a number of awesome Japanese shoe bloggers. If you buy or sell vintage Florsheim shoes, you should find this information useful. I hope!

Looking for info on Shell Cordovan models? Visit this post which has a complete list of Florsheim’s vintage Shell Cordovan models. And read my guide to buying a Florsheim Imperial 93605.

I have a post on buying vintage shoes which explains to what to look for when buying a pair.

Shoe Manufacturing Codes

So let’s start by looking at all the numbers and letters you typically find in a vintage Florsheim. These will be on the inner right side of the shoe.Florsheim Model Number

10 1/2 D – Size information. US sizing
654543 – An order/sequence number but I don’t believe the value is unique. The same number should appear in the left and right shoe
15 – Factory/manufacturer code (pretty sure)
93631 – This is the model number (Golden Harvest)
GH – Month/Year code (more on this below)

Date of Manufacture

Florsheim used two letters on the shoes to represent the year and month (see discussion). The first character is the month (A=January, B=February, and so on). The second character is the last digit of the year (A=0, B=1, etc). In the 1950s, the month was a letter but the year was a number (i.e. “D9”).

So in the example above, GH would be July of the year 7. Is that 1997 or 1987 or 1977 or 1967? I am guessing it is 1977. This was a model produced in the 1960s and 1970s and this particular shoe has a post-1973 v-cleat (more on that later).

Unfortunately for us, Florsheim decided to use a single character to represent the year. So its difficult to date Florsheim shoes to the year without knowing the years the model was produced. And that information is hard to come by. More on that later.

I made this date calculator to help you decode the possible dates:
Enter Florsheim Date Code (Upper Case):

A few dating clues that can help you (see examples at the bottom of the page):

  • The Imperial Kenmoor 92604 and 93602 (the two most common Florsheim Imperial models on eBay) were produced from 1957 to 1988
  • Most of the Royal Imperial models you see on eBay (97623, 97624, 97625, 97626), were made in the 1990s
  • If the numbering looks old and is black, it is likely from the 1950s or 1960s
  • In Imperial models after 1973, the v-cleat position is inset within the heel toplift. Before that, the v-cleat was flush with the outside of the heel (see examples at the bottom of the page)
  • In 1993 and after, some models are labelled “Made in USA”. This was probably done to distinguish them from “Made in India” models
  • Theater like Florsheim corporate logo appeared in shoes ~1992
  • Rectangle Florsheim corporate logo appeared in 1997
  • Models labelled with “Assembled in USA” started in 1997
  • “Custom Grade” models were made in Spain in the 1980s
  • If the shoes have a date code and the second character is a number (i.e. “D9”), the shoes were made in the 1950s
  • My mostly complete list of calfskin long wing models has some dating information
Model Number Details

From 1957 to 2002, the model number was a 5 digit code. The first reference I saw for this 5 digit number system was in a February 1957 ad, but it may have started in late 1956. Prior to those years, the models usually started with “S-” or “F-” and were followed by 4 digits. So if you find a shoe with that pattern of model number, you know it is 60+ years old. Nice find.

For non-Imperial line models, the first digit of the model number signifies the color if the digit is 2, 3, 4 or 8. For Imperials, the second digit is the color code. I see no pattern for models starting with 5, 6, or 7. Here is what I have gathered:

2nnnn Black, Gray
3nnnn Brown, Wine, Tan, Gold, Burgundy
4nnnn White
8nnnn Blue
92nnn Imperial Black
93nnn Imperial Brown (not black)
96nnn Royal Imperial Black
97nnn Royal Imperial Brown (not black)

What about number 1? I haven’t seen any models starting with 1. Modern Florsheim shoe model numbers (2002+), usually start with a 1 though. Maybe that’s why they chose it.

The third digit is a style code. Again, this what I have seen in the wild:

nn0nn Loafer, Monk
nn1nn Loafer, Boot, Monk
nn2nn Loafer, Boot
nn3nn Balmoral
nn4nn Loafer, Boot
nn5nn Loafer, Boot
nn6nn Blucher
nn7nn Blucher
nn8nn Blucher
nn9nn No pattern

With this information for example, you can categorize the handsome 20305 as a Black Balmoral:
Florsheim 20305

What about the shoe last? Allen Edmonds encodes the last into the model number, did Florsheim? I don’t believe so. I have found no mention of lasts in any Florsheim ads/materials.

This numbering schema was fairly consistent until the early 1990s. There was probably some guy on the product team making sure the model numbers conformed to this system. In the 90s, older model numbers started getting reused, Royal Imperials became Imperials. Model number anarchy! Why? I assume it was because that “guy” was probably laid off.

Country of Origin

Where was this shoe made? There is no “Made in…” label on the inside. If the shoe doesn’t have a country of origin, the shoe was most likely made in the USA. Made in India shoes will say “Made in India”. Florsheim also made shoes in Canada, Italy, Brazil, China, Australia, and Spain. So if you are listing a Florsheim shoe on eBay to sell, enter “United States” as the country of manufacture when listing a shoe without a “Made in …” label. Canadian Florsheim shoes have a maple leaf on the insole.

Names and Custom Model Numbers

Very occasionally you might see names and non-standard model number numbers in Florsheim shoes. These are made to order (MTO) models and are unique in some ways. I once purchased a split toe Imperial model with the model code of “3F-2397X” and the seller told me it was a special order from the Chicago Florsheim store.

Vintage Florsheim custom codeVintage Florsheim MTO

Florsheim Customer Service

I have received vintage shoe information in the past from Allen Edmonds, Footjoy and Johnston and Murphy. Allen Edmonds even has many of their old catalogs freely available on the web. When I emailed Florsheim Customer Service to see if they could share any information on past models, they sent me this response:
Florsheim Customer Service

I didn’t actually send a model number in my email so the customer service response made no sense but I got their point. I assumed they won’t help with my pre-1952 shoes as well. The message content is a non sequitur and ironic since Florsheim puts “Established 1892”, not “2002”, in their logo. But feel free to email Florsheim customer service and maybe you will get a positive response. If not, I am happy to help with vintage Florsheim questions, you can email me via the contact form or leave a comment below.


Shoes from the 50s and 60s had this style of print. This example is from a Florsheim Varsity 20686 produced in October 1965 (JF)
Florsheim 20686 date code

If the v-cleat is flush with outside of heel it was produced before 1973
Vintage Florsheim V-Cleat

Inset v-cleats indicate the shoe was made in 1973 or after. Florsheim Imperial 93602 from March 1980 (CA):
Florsheim 92604 heel inset v-cleat

If your shoes have this theater like logo, they were produced after 1992. Florsheim Imperial 97625 from May 1996 (EG):
Florsheim EG

“Made in USA” started in 1993. This Florsheim Imperial is from January 1997 (AH):
Florsheim AH

“Assembled in USA” started in 1997. Florsheim Imperial 97625 from December 1998 (LI):
Florsheim Assembled in USA

This logo and heel construction was introduced in 1997. Florsheim Imperial 97626 from August 1997 (HH):
Florsheim Imperial 1997 logo and heel

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111 thoughts on “Florsheim Model Numbers 1950s-90s”

  1. I own a pair of shoes with markings like those shown in the last photo where the model number is marked 97625 but the shoes are labeled simply “Florsheim Imperials” as you noted in the photo caption. From what I’ve learned on this site, that particular model number would have previously been associated with a Royal Imperial shoe. Do you have any idea at what point in time Florsheim dropped the Royal Imperial line from their offerings? Strange that they would keep the model number. Perhaps the lasts used were the Royal Imperial lasts, but with no more of the Royal Imperial branding?

    1. Of the 97625 models I have seen, and I have seen a lot, 1996 was the first year I saw Florsheim drop the “Royal” prefix for the 97625. Build wise, it looks like the same shoe to me but with a different liner color. The heel is slightly different. I believe Florsheim eliminated the shoe bags when it became an Imperial.

  2. Great source of information. I just picked up a great pair of 96032 BG loafers made in Italy and everything here matched up perfectly. The only thing that appears different is that the insole has THE ROYAL IMPERIAL in gold letters and an image of a royal scepter. I’d love to know when that logo was used. I figure they are either 1966 or 1976.

      1. Thanks for the quick response David. I think you are right about the date. They definitely exude a sort of disco Saturday Night Fever vibe : )

  3. Hi,
    Thanks for your interesting article here. I have a mystery that I have not been able to solve after reading all above. I have a split toe, five eyelet shoe with a heel stamped: The Florsheim Shoe. The interior numbers are as follows: 9C 651202 1392, with the following markings on the leather insole: K union made 2 (with a circle around the 2). I can send photos. Please help!

  4. Thanks for the great site!

    I just picked up a pair of 93605. The only stamped information is the size and model number. There is no sequence number, factory code, date code, or country of manufacture stamped on either shoe. The footbed logo is the older style (although very worn and unclear). The heels and sole have been replaced so no clues there.

    Any idea when these shoes may have been made? And why no date stamp?

  5. Hello!

    I have a brown pebble grain split toe that has the model 7S3379 BH on the inside. Any idea when these might have been made? They are labeled Florsheim Imperials with the pre 90s sole label.

  6. Hi
    I just found a pair of split toe, 5 eyelet Imperials in brown. They have two cleats inset flush with the heel (same as the black ones in your other article). The code next to the size is “312489” and the code below is OF 3396 LA. The text is in black and pretty clear. I have searched everywhere for some information on this model but can’t find anything. Do you have any ideas?

    Thanks and love your site!

      1. Sounds like the same model described in Ray’s comments above. You can send me a photo using david at vcleat dot com

  7. Great informative site you have! I have a pair with the number 30813 HB. The insole has a round logo (too worn to make much out other than Florsheim Shoe(?) and Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. Any idea of a year/decade/style? Thanks.

  8. I recently purchased a pair of Royal Imperial model 96614 with a date code of KD. They have a split leather/rubber heel. Do you have any information on the type of leather, years produced, etc.? Thanks in advance!

    1. That model was made in the early to mid-1970s. The leather was likely what Florsheim called “Coventry Calf”. Not 100% on that. I have read a few people saying it was Bison or Buffalo. They could be right. Or wrong.

  9. Wow, what a great article and fount of refreshing knowledge you are! I have a pair of Florsheim Imperial loafers that I think are deerskin, I’d call them bit loafers, except the bit is a leather twist, like a beefroll. The code inside is 18332. They are like these but tan leather with no canvas. Can you help me, Obi Wan?

    1. Sorry but I don’t have any info on that model. Since the model number starts with 1, they were likely made after 2002. You might email Florsheim customer service for model info.

  10. Do you know the locations of all 14 Florsheim factories that operated in the 1970’s? Were any located in TN?



    1. No I don’t. I spent a day once trying to align the manufacturing code in the shoe with the plant. No luck. The internet failed me. Again.

  11. I have a curious shoe. It appears to be a black shell cordovan Imperial shoe with the Theater like logo inside and says “made in USA. However, the model number seems to be missing. The information found on the inside of the shoe is 7 1/2 — D– 355175–2. Below that where the model number should be there is nothing except HG– made in the USA. Additionally it has a vcleat that is flush with the outside of the heal. I can send photos once I figure out how to do so… or send them to you directly. Thoughts?

    1. That’s probably a mid-90s model. Florsheim produced black shell cordovan long wings in the 90s but they must have been special runs or MTO. Thus no model number. You can send me a photo at david at vcleat dot com.

  12. I bought a pair of vintage Florsheim Oxford-Spectators and have no idea what year they are from. Could you tell me based on the numbers inside?
    361094 14
    31325 JH

    1. I looked and have no information on the 31325 model but its likely from 67 or 77. If you send me some photos at david at vcleat dot com, i will take a look at them.

  13. Great info! I just found a pair that are marked 773606 and have a name instead of a size. Does this mean they were custom made for someone? Any idea what year they are from? Thank you!

    1. If the shoes have a name then they made to order. Is there a date code in the shoe? If so, that helps with dating them.

  14. Hi, i bought a pair of vintage imperial quality with code 7 3E 1059 03 09 under these numbers is another numbers & letters code 7392 DI. Any idea what year is this? Thank you.

  15. I found a pair of brown shoes in great shape, stored in a bag with shoe trees for likely over 40 years. The model number is S1356 followed by COMB. Where can I find out about these?

    1. I have an old 1951 Florsheim catalog and found the pair. The model is called “The Stroller”. So the pair was likely made in the later 40s or early 50s.

      1. Thanks for your quick reply. This is very helpful. The shoes really don’t show any sign of wear creases in the leather at all, and are not scuffed. The leather is in great shape. The soles have only very light wear. The laces need to be replaced, but I could easily wear them now.

  16. I found a pair of Florsheim Idlers Boots in a thrift store yesterday. Numbers are 11 B 760790 19 and 70022 GH. Any info would be great!

  17. I found your article quite helpful. Thank you for all the research you have done. The number is 97318 AJ. Sounds like that is a Royal Imperial Brown Balmoral from January ending in a 9. There is no v-cleat that I can see and no “made in” marking. Best guess of the age?

  18. I own a pair of Florsheim longwings marked 436I4 DG (The “I” is the letter, not the number “one”). These are single sole, partially lined spectators with white scotch grain combined with smooth, dark brown leather. Based on the code DG, I’m guessing these are made in 1966. Or was Florsheim still making spectators in 1976?

  19. Hi David.

    I can’t find any information on a pair of Florsheim longwings. The inside say “designed and made expressively for Florsheim shoe shops”. They are made in Czechoslovakia and stamped:
    8 1/2 EEE 37 8194 CN 647
    710510 04240 7681

    Any ideas?

  20. Thanks for all the interesting info!
    How about:

    1st row says: 9D 532285 029 01
    2nd row says: 30580 GI 30 F

    I have a pic, but unsure how to attach it here!
    Thanks so much!

  21. Hi,
    Thank you for your time.
    Could you please tell me the factory correct edge color for the Florsheim Imperial hand stained brown calf skin also the Golden Harvest?
    Ben Coller

  22. Hello, Although the printed name is visible the style numbers or size are not visible at all. I wonder if these are custom made shoes. I need some help determining what model and age that these Florseheim’s are. These Black Shell Cordovan Florsheim Imperial Derby’s have 5 eyelets, Full Goodyear Welt, V-Plate Heel.
    The nails have been removed on the heel and partly covered with heel savers. The v-cleat position is inset within the heel top lift. The plate does show on back bottom of the heel. Have hand peg shank, calf skin lining.
    Insole reads “The Florsheim Shoe” “Imperial Quality” on the insole.. On the upper inside of one shoe there is an oval design inset that reads “Florsheim Imperial”. They are in Very nice condition. Please send instructions to send a photo. I would greatly appreciate any information you can give me.

    1. Hello, I recently purchased a pair of royal imperials in black. The model number is 96371 CC. These are an oddity as far as I can tell. They are a full wing brogue loafer with tassels in black. I have followed your page for awhile and haven’t seen such a thing anywhere. They have the cepter logo in the heel cup and a rubber heel.

      1. I looked through my catalogs and couldn’t find that model. It don’t have every year. Likely made in the 1990s based on the model number.

  23. Dear David,
    I have a pair of 92604 KI and a similar pair of light brown 8F339200 JI. Any clue as to the significance of the numbers in the latter pair?
    Thanks in advance.

  24. Re-reading your Golden Harvest and burgundy shell oxford posts, it seems the pair in question are a pair of special run Golden Harvests.

    Will send pics when I can. Thanks again.

  25. Hi, I have a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperials boots. I have been reading all he previous chats but nothing that tells me about this boot. On the bottom sole it says(in a triangle) “ISSI Italia” and made in Itay. On the inside of boot it has numbers-11c 826255
    96092 LF, Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Kelly

  26. I have a pair of Footage in shoes. Model number 21103 JI. I found them in one of your other post in the catalogs so they were made in Oct 67-69. Are they worth selling?

  27. Hi, I have a pair of Florsheim shoes. The info is below. I saw this model number in your article saying it was produced in the 60s and 70s. With it being a less common model, I’ve had trouble finding the value of these shoes. If there is any info you can provide, I would appreciate your help so much! I can send pictures if you’d like. Feel free to email me at and I’ll also bookmark this page to keep an eye out for your reply.

    10 1/2 D 602545 21
    30736 KB

    1. Great model but not highly sought after. It’s the same model as the main photo of this post. Its worth $50 to $80 depending on condition.

      1. Thank you! Yeah these shoes are amazing! Heavy as tanks, but in a good way. Ridiculously amazing craftsmanship compared to high-end shoes I see today. Really appreciate your insight, and now I know a good asking price, although my boyfriend is begging to keep them! 🙂

  28. Hello,

    Love having access to all of your information. I do have a question about a pair of Florsheim’s I recently acquired. The number in the shoe is 97622. Wanted to know if you had ever found any information on that shoe. Looks like they will make a great addition to the rest of my vintage Florsheim’s. Date code puts them at a 1998 vintage. Any info you would have would be great.

    Thanks so much.

  29. There is a pair on ebay, too narrow unfortunately, that have a green on gold inset Royal Imperial by Florsheim. Wondering when that was used.
    9 B 603141
    97324 L B

  30. You would love to know me I work for Florsheim from 1962 until 1985 I worked under Lou b r i e n who ran all 409 Men’s Stores I still know every number and color of Florsheim shoes no matter which one there is any style after all of these years talk to me my email is r o u g h r i d i n t e d d y at

  31. Hi David, I came into a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperials with a serial of 96308 DC, which puts the manufacture at April 19×2. Insole has “The Royal Imperial Florsheim Shoe” scepter logo; both that logo and the serial number are stamped in gold lettering. I’m thinking they’re most likely 1982 vintage, judging by some of the info I was able to get from your site, but I would like to nail down the year for sure if possible. Any thoughts? Thanks!

  32. Hi. I have a pair of Florsheim loafers with dated numbers
    any ideal when these were produced please? thanks.

    11 C 290965 14

  33. Hi David, I was wondering if you could help me out. I’ve looked everywhere and I can’t find any reference to my model # anywhere.

    It’s a Royal Imperial (scepter logo) model 97327 EC. Black lettering with the same style of print as your 50’s/60’s example up top, but the heel construction looks like your 1997 example (97626). I would think it was a 60’s model with a new heel, but the inside of the shoe looks almost brand new as well. Could it just be a very well taken care of 60’s model? I can also email pictures if needed.

    Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!

      1. Thank you! There is literally no info anywhere that I could find. Are they rare or just not very desirable?

  34. Hi David – thanks for providing all of this information.

    I picked up a pair of Florsheim shoes at an estate sale – they look vintage, are 6-eyelet, and have no markings like you mention in your info, so I’m wondering if that’s because they might be custom made?
    The only markings on inside side of the shoe are 40 3 832256
    On the inside bottom of the shoe it is marked L Union Made 3.
    In addition to the The Florsheim Shoe stamp on the inside heel, on the inside back left side of the shoe, there is an inset “The Florsheim Shoe fabric label.

    Do you possibly have any insight on any of that? I’m perplexed by these shoes now!

    Thanks so much!

  35. I purchased a pair of Florsheim tall riding boots at a flea market yesterday for no other reason than they appear to be extremely well-made. I am trying to date them and haven’t been able to find any others like them. They are a size 10 B and bear the number “172581.” Below the size it is marked “S 287(?).” I’ve noted that serial numbers beginning with 1 would indicate post-2002 but these appear to be pretty old. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

  36. I have a couple Florsheim Kenmoor shoes I’ve had since the early 1990’s, and I love them. I purchased a vintage pair and did a total restoration at B Nelson and I can’t believe how great they turned out. Tough as nails! I saw a pair in an exotic skin at a thrift store and they were in excellent little worn shape. The suicide heel has been replaced. I’m not sure what they are made from. The lining is black with green stitching. the style number is 95080, I think and the date code is JB.

    Can you tell me anything about this unique find? Treasure or junk?

    1. I don’t have any info on that model. If you have a few photos, I can give you my opinion. My email address is on the contact page.

  37. Hello David. It’s Jorge, from the later posts on the vintage brands thread. Would you mind telling me in what year was made the earliest/oldest pair of long wings you have ever seen/owned/known of that you were actually able to know such date accurately?

    Thank you very much.

    1. I looked through all my catalogs (all manufacturers) from the 1920s forward and the first pair of long wings that I found was the Florsheim S-1405 Viking in a 1951 catalog. I don’t have Florsheim catalogs from the late 1940s.

  38. Hello, David,
    I have a pair of Florsheim cowboy boots, calf, dress black, I purchased new c. 1989. They have small American flags glued to the glove leather lining, and no markings other than the size, and 76104. A guy who seemed to know, suggested they were a limited release commemorating George H. W. Bush’s Presidency. Any information you might have on these would be greatly appreciated. I would love to restore these, but I wouldn’t know where to start. They have steel shanks, leather soles, and rubber heels.

  39. Could you share that catalog with me through a link of your preference if it’s been digitized in any way? It could be useful for my research.

    Thank you for your time, David.

    Have a nice day.

    1. If you send me an email (its on the contact page), I will send you a photo of the pair in the catalog. I don’t have images of the full catalog

  40. Hello, can I throw a number at you? Model 96626, black Royal Imperial. Code is ED so your date calculator suggests 1983 or 93. They’re really nice and have a deep red interior that looks quite classy.

  41. Hi David,
    I recently picked up a pair of vintage florsheim longwings at a thrift store and was wondering about when they were made. I figured sometime in the 70s just based on the looks of the. The thing is, they have no date code that I can see. The inside reads as follows: 8 EEE (in cursive lettering, but I asume they’re E’s) 81203 75676 and off the the right it says Man-Made insole. The footbed has the gold stamped logo that reads: The Florsheim Shoe Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. There is no other writing or markings in the shoe that I can see. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thank you.

    1. The 75676 was likely made in the late 1980s or early 1990s. I believe they were sold in non-Florsheim stores like Sears and Kuppenheimers.

  42. Hello, I have 2 pair Kenmore long wing, new in box, that I sold to my father in 1980’s (1984 if I’m reading the date code of CE correctly) , I worked at a Florsheim store! They are not worn! Style 93602 and 92604, 14B. I was wondering their value. Any ideas? Thank you.

    1. That’s some great history on the shoes. They are likely worth $125 to $200 each on ebay. 14 B is not a size many people are looking for so that limits their value and it might a few weeks or month to sell them.

  43. Hi David,

    I have a pair of Florsheim that read 80070 5 EE 680. Could you identify the model and the year they were made?
    Thank you.

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