Hanover Shoe Company was founded in Hanover Pennsylvania in 1899 and produced quality, goodyear welted shoes from its factories until 1996. Twenty years after Hanover ended the production of shoes in the USA, Hanover shoes are still sought after by men’s shoe enthusiasts.
Hanover was one of the top shoe manufacturers in the USA and produced a wide range of men’s boots and shoes. Like many USA shoe manufacturers, Hanover produced a limited number of premium models using Horween Shell Cordovan leather.
Below I have started a list of these Shell Cordovan models to help with identification of them. The list is not complete but it does contain the most common Shell Cordovan model that you’ll find on eBay. After Florsheim, Hanover is the most common vintage Shell Cordovan brand.
The model identifier for Hanover shoes is a four-digit number. In the image below, 2168 is the model number. Early Shell Cordovan models were labelled “Imperial”. In the late 1960s(?), the “LB Sheppard Signatures” label was introduced as Hanover’s premium line of shoes. The LB Sheppard line appears to have ended in the 1980s and “Masterflex” or “Masterflex Signature” was used instead.
I have seen both rubber and leather heels on the same model. Some Hanover outsoles are labelled with “Shell Cordovan” while other soles are not. A few of the brown models below came in Ravello Shell Cordovan.
Related posts:
Hanover LB Sheppard Black Shell Cordovan PTB 3168
Florsheim Shell Cordovan Models
Nettleton Shell Cordovan Models
Hanover 4184 Saddle Shoe Restore
Hanover 1970 Catalog
Allen Edmonds MacNeil Shell Cordovan 9187 Restore
Allen Edmonds Leeds Shell Cordovan 9591
Florsheim Shell Cordovan NOS eBay Sales – Year in Review
Thanks, some of those created additional style numbers to the Horween shell list of shoes found on the internet. Now, If I can just find some for me!
any comment about the 2366 model? I am eyeing a pair of wing-tips that I want to learn more about.
Thanks!
The 2366 is a corrected leather long wing. Its okay but Hanover made better models.
Are the masterflex 2356’s also corrected leather? Just picked up a good looking pair for $5 from Goodwill and they are in my size, so I’m happy regardless.
Yes, corrected leather
Any comment about the 3350 model?
Thank you.
The 3350 model is not shell cordovan. The upper leather is heavily creased on all the pairs I have seen
I own a pair of Hanover, A man’s shoe, saddle shoes, model 2182, SN17332016, that are unusual. First, They are black/red and second, the markings on the sole make me believe the shell cordovan is from someone other than Horween. The bottom sole on one shoe is stamped with a horse and jockey galloping, legs spread, and long whip over head. It also contains the letters “F. D.” above the horse and “D C” below. Can you help me out? Where can I find additional information? Thanks.
Are you sure they are shell? The ones I have seen are not. You can always send me a photo.
I believe “F.D.” indicates they are seconds. Like Allen Edmonds seconds, the defect could be very minor.
I believe F.D, stands for Factory Defect or something like that–as you said, seconds. I have a pair of Florsheims and a pair of Hanovers with the same thing stamped into the sole. However, in neither case have I been able to find the reason for it–must be a pretty minor issue. Both pairs are perfectly usable and you wouldn’t think they were seconds if you didn’t see the marking.
How do I send you a photo?
Fake or not?
Can you tell anything about these ones?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANOVER-Mens-Shell-Cordovan-Brown-Plain-Toe-Blucher-Dress-Shoe-9-5-M-C-/232351087607?hash=item3619343bf7:g:Uy0AAOSwImRYRfYN
Those are shell cordovan. Some of the Hanover shell models used what appears to be Ravello shell.
Thank you, for a non-expert, anything wrong with Ravello?
Knut
No. Ravello is the name of the Shell Cordovan color. Search on “Alden Ravello” and you will find examples of the color
What about 2103 models. Are they shell?
The 2103 looks like shell but is correct leather
what do you mean correct leather?
Google “Corrected Leather” or “Polished Cobbler”
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222726129652
Can you take a look at these and see tell me if it’s worth it?
I wouldn’t pay more than $50 for that pair. They are not shell cordovan
What about 2102?
Not shell. Calfskin brown PTB
Hey – do we know about 2166?
Not shell. Corrected leather PTB
Hi, Just want to mention the 2524 model tassel shell cordovan loafer, I have some up for sale if you want to grab photos for the list:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/282867397155?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Thanks. I updated the list with that pair
I recently bought my first Hanover LB Sheppard from the Bay, a #2100 saddle. The size is marked as 10.5 C/B. I thought it unusual that the heel has a one size drop from the ball width, instead of the usual two.
I have seen a number of pre-1960s pairs with a one width difference in the heel. Its surprising when you find one. Maybe it was an option at one point.
Thanks for such an informative site. Your vast knowledge never fails to impress.
David; thank you again for all the help and advice; any info on model 2313?
LR
The 2313 looks like Shell but it is made using polished cobbler
David; thanks again; was afraid of that 🙁
LR
I’ve seen, at least what appears to be, a 6 eyelet black shell… Has anyone else seen this before?
What about this one?
Model 2503 and mention ‘CORDO’ on the box.
Many thanks in advance
The 2503 is not made from Shell Cordovan
Do you happen to know If the master flex 2101 is corrected grain or shell?
The 2101 is in the 1970 Hanover catalog that I posted. Its calfskin.
https://vcleat.com/hanover-1970-catalog/
They must have reused the model number in later years. The shoes I’m looking at are brogued and closed-laced, not PTBs. They are also post-LB Sheppard branding.
Pics: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/vintage-dress-shoe-appreciation-tips-maintenance-and-advice.526196/page-1129#post-9706025
I have a few catalogs from Hanover from the 1970s and 1980s and I don’t see that version of the model. The pair doesn’t appear to have any creases so they look like Shell to me.
Hi, thank you for this! I would like feedback on the fit of the PTB 2168, is it true to size? how does this compare to the Alden barrie?
Thanks!
I find Hanover PTBs to fit true to size. So 1/2 size from Barrie.
I am looking at some Hanover penny loafers model 2570. They look nearly unworn and so I cannot tell from any creasing in the photos if they are shell. Have you seen this model in shell? Thanks!
The 2570 is not Shell Cordovan. Looks like it is though when its new.
Hanover made a slimmer style wingtip, marketed as TrueTread. These had what is know as a Bal (v-like) opening for the laces rather than the larger blucher opening found on the traditional wing tips. There was a Shell Cordovan model for this line. I would have yje model number but gave my pair to my son.
My first foray into shell cordovan was with the Hanover 2351 LWB. And it was absolutely huge. I normally wear 10E to an 11D (depending on last, etc). The ones I got were 11D, and I have to use inserts, thick socks, and tie them about as tight as they’ll go, and my feet still slide around to the point where they’re borderline unwearable. They’re pretty roomy in the toe box, but the real problem for me is the width. I’ve never had an issue with width before (I have 2 pairs of vintage Florsheim in 11D that both fit great). I’ve scanned some of your posts and and various others on StyleForum, etc, and from what I see, everyone says that Hanovers fit true to size, and one comment I found even thought they were on the narrow side. Was the 2351 made on a different last or something? And if so, any sizing recommendations?
I have found Hanover long wings to fit true to size. Hanover ads mention using the same shoes lasts as Florsheim. That said, there is often variations in vintage pairs due to them being assembled by people. If the shoes don’t fit, I usually won’t wear them and will resell them. Which is a pain sometimes but better than the pair just sitting in your closet.
On the model 2350 longwing, on can one tell whether its shall or non-shell; on the non-shell models, corrected leather or calfskin?
The 2350 long wing upper leather is corrected calfskin. I am not sure what Hanover called the leather. Shell Cordovan doesn’t crease, it will have rolls.
Thank you, appreciate the guidance. The 2350 I have are derbys rather than oxfords and don’t have the pinking along the tongue as the 2350s above. The shoes do have stacked heel and leather welt though.
I was trying to determine if my New Old Stock Hanover LB Sheppard 3602 George Boot was shell cordovan, because I got a smooth spit shine from normal cleaning and polishing. I found it in their catalog. It is not shell cordovan, but it still an awesome shoe. Worth every penny of the $9.99 that I paid for the pair at the local Goodwill! Nice enough to wear with a tuxedo.
I have a nice pair of saddles 2152. Could they be shell?
They do look like.
Hi David,
This is becoming a problem…lol. Just coppped the Hanover LB shell wingtips – 2351 that were on your watchlist. Thanks again!
Karl
The Masterflex model number 2596 tassel loafers are made of corrected calfskin. They appear to be made of burgundy shell cordovan when new; however, they crease terribly when used.
I’ve just seen a new-old-stock pair for sale on eBay. I could not see if they were shell cordovan or not. Their model number was not listed here, so I went down a rabbit hole looking at used burgundy tassel loafers until I found a beat-up pair with the same model number that obviously was not shell cordovan.